I’m not used to weaving with three-ply yarn. Most weaving yarn has two plies so that it lies flat in the shed, whereas more plies creates a rounder yarn. This yarn is an odd grist: 9/3 unmercerized cotton hand dyed in Latvia by MimaHandwovens. Weaving setts can be tricky if you’re not seeking a balanced weave. I want a *somewhat* warp-emphasis fabric to highlight the beautiful dye job.
Because I will be weaving 3:1/1:3 twills to produce large motifs, I need a closer sett than is typically used for balanced twills (2/2 on four shafts).
I asked the Etsy shop owner about suggested weaving setts. She replied, “I usually do 6-9 epcm (15-22 epi) for twill, crackle….” Her weaving tends to be more open and lacy than my clothing fabrics. An online sett suggestion for 10/3 cotton, slightly thinner than 9/3 yarn, is 24 epi for twill. A suggestion elsewhere for 8/4 cotton is 18 epi for twill; 8/4 carpet warp looks almost identical to my warp yarn in thickness.
After much dithering, I have chosen initially to thread the reed at 24 epi, which means sleying the 10-dent reed 2-2-3. I prefer to warp front-to-back. If I don’t like the initial results, I will re-sley the reed before continuing. I don’t want to waste any of the warp.
400 ends @ 24 epi = 16.67 inches wide on the loom, a good width for the two sides of a tunic blouse with center panels woven separately with a freeform overshot design.
Complicating matters, the threading repeat is 30 ends. The two warps are not from the same dye batch, so I’m going to interleave the 400 ends in the following pattern:
400 ends: 20 ends (color #1) – 60 ends (#2) – 60 ends (#1) – 60 ends (#2) — 60 ends (#1) — 60 ends (#2) — 60 ends (#1) – 20 ends of color #2.
The warp is a little over 3 m / 3.28 y long, or about 3 yards of usable warp on my Erica because the loom design minimizes waste yarn. With weaving uptake, wet finishing shrinkage, and hemming, there should be just enough fabric to fit me:
* 3 y ÷ 2 sides (right and left) = 1.5 y minus shrinkage.
* 1.5 y ÷ 2 sides (front and back) = 0.75 y or 27 inches.
I still have not decided on the weft for this fabric, either, commercial tencel or hand dyed slub tencel from Mary Gavan Yarns.